My Bombay Kitchen: Recipes--2

Selected Recipes from Niloufer Ichaporia King's My Bombay Kitchen

2. Fish in Banana-Leaf Parcels / Patra ni Machhi

Patra ni Machhi (with salmon)

If anyone were to ask me what my favorite Parsi dish was, this would be it. Finding a piece of patra ni machhi on your plate is like being given a very nice present. You peel off the banana-leaf wrapping, releasing gusts of maddeningly aromatic steam, and then you get to a piece of fish, moist and tender, coated in green chutney. Getting banana leaves in India is not difficult at all. There, as in Mexico and other tropical countries, they’re almost to be had for the asking. Now, Asian and Latin American groceries sell frozen one-pound stacks of banana leaves from the Philippines. These aren’t as good as fresh ones, which are now beginning to appear, but they do perfectly well. Freezing softens them so they need no further treatment.

Fresh banana leaves need preparation. Pass them over a flame for a moment until they soften. That way, they won’t split. Cut large pieces on either side of the midrib. Set aside. In India, cooks use strips peeled off the midrib to make string for tying. You can also use regular kitchen string.

The fish Parsis use most often is pomfret, but pompano will do if you can get it, or salmon fillets, lingcod, tilapia, or sea bass. It’s well worth investing in a steamer. Chinese and other Asian markets have a wide range of metal or bamboo steamers in many sizes at very reasonable prices. I use one at almost every meal.

The recipe can be doubled, but make the chutney in small batches. Serves 6 to 8.

CHUTNEY

Patra, not yet steamed

1/2 coconut, grated, or 2 cups unsweetened frozen grated coconut, thawed
6 green chiles
1 cup (packed) fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves and tender stems
1/2 to 3/4 cup fresh mint leaves (optional)
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons (or more) lime juice
Sugar and salt to taste

FISH

Salt
2 to 2 1/2 pounds fish fillets
About 1/2 pound banana leaves

To make the chutney: Grind the coconut, chiles, fresh coriander, mint if using, and cumin. Add enough lime juice to make a smooth paste. Add sugar and salt to taste.

Patra, out of the steamer

Lightly salt the fish on both sides. Coat the fish with the chutney. The coating should not be too thick or the fish will be eclipsed. Wrap the fillets in banana leaves and tie. Place the wrapped fish no more than two deep in the top part of a steamer. Cover and steam until tender, about 5 minutes for thinner pieces or10 minutes for thicker pieces like salmon fillets. Test by unwrapping one of the pieces, or pierce through the banana leaf with a skewer.

Note: If neither fresh nor frozen banana leaves can be had, you can use other large edible leaves such as chard, ti leaves (Cordyline terminalis), ornamental ginger leaves (Hedychium), or fig leaves. Parchment will do in a pinch.

Sue's Comments on the Recipe

In my mind this dish was exclusively connected to lagan nu bhonu, or wedding feasts, and navjote (initiation ceremony) receptions. Again, it is not something I have attempted in my own kitchen, probably due to the difficulty in getting hold of banana leaves in northern Italy. People do sometimes have banana trees as ornamental plants in their garden, and as I walked in the park one day I was inspired to ask a woman who was in her garden nearby if she wouldn’t spare me a banana leaf from her tree. Rather bemused at my request, she kindly cut one and presented it to me. You can’t get fresher than that! Ignoring the strange glances on the way home, I immediately put it to use. The leaf was so tender and pliable that I didn’t even need to prepare it as Niloufer outlined, it performed perfectly well as it was. For this version I used salmon steaks, and the results were super.

I also attempted the chard leaf version before I was able to procure a banana leaf, and that too was interesting. Firstly, the packets were smaller, and I used white fish steaks in them. The leaves were very delicate once steamed and I had to handle the packets carefully. You can of course eat the leaf and all, which added a not unpleasant dimension. But the banana leaf was certainly superior - its delicate perfume infuses the fish, without competing with it. I would definitely go for the banana leaf option if I were able, it’s worth the trouble.

Lastly, the recipe for the green chutney is itself worth the recipe, it is that good! The Parsi take on this classic is hot, sweet and sour. Make a double quantity and keep some aside for use in sandwiches and as a relish.

Next: Seafood Ragout / Patia.


home about contact policies submissions feature archives audio visual writing reviews forums art film & television food literature music society & culture elsewhere desilit parabaas sasialit sawnet upper stall	Selected Recipes from Niloufer Ichaporia King's My Bombay Kitchen 2. Fish in Banana-Leaf Parcels / Patra ni Machhi Patra ni Machhi (with salmon) If anyone were to ask me what my favorite Parsi dish was, this would be it. Finding a piece of patra ni machhi on your plate is like being given a very nice present. You peel off the banana-leaf wrapping, releasing gusts of maddeningly aromatic steam, and then you get to a piece of fish, moist and tender, coated in green chutney. Getting banana leaves in India is not difficult at all. There, as in Mexico and other tropical countries, they’re almost to be had for the asking. Now, Asian and Latin American groceries sell frozen one-pound stacks of banana leaves from the Philippines. These aren’t as good as fresh ones, which are now beginning to appear, but they do perfectly well. Freezing softens them so they need no further treatment. Fresh banana leaves need preparation. Pass them over a flame for a moment until they soften. That way, they won’t split. Cut large pieces on either side of the midrib. Set aside. In India, cooks use strips peeled off the midrib to make string for tying. You can also use regular kitchen string. The fish Parsis use most often is pomfret, but pompano will do if you can get it, or salmon fillets, lingcod, tilapia, or sea bass. It’s well worth investing in a steamer. Chinese and other Asian markets have a wide range of metal or bamboo steamers in many sizes at very reasonable prices. I use one at almost every meal. The recipe can be doubled, but make the chutney in small batches. Serves 6 to 8. CHUTNEY Patra, not yet steamed 1/2 coconut, grated, or 2 cups unsweetened frozen grated coconut, thawed 6 green chiles 1 cup (packed) fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves and tender stems 1/2 to 3/4 cup fresh mint leaves (optional) 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 tablespoons (or more) lime juice Sugar and salt to taste FISH Salt 2 to 2 1/2 pounds fish fillets About 1/2 pound banana leaves To make the chutney: Grind the coconut, chiles, fresh coriander, mint if using, and cumin. Add enough lime juice to make a smooth paste. Add sugar and salt to taste. Patra, out of the steamer Lightly salt the fish on both sides. Coat the fish with the chutney. The coating should not be too thick or the fish will be eclipsed. Wrap the fillets in banana leaves and tie. Place the wrapped fish no more than two deep in the top part of a steamer. Cover and steam until tender, about 5 minutes for thinner pieces or10 minutes for thicker pieces like salmon fillets. Test by unwrapping one of the pieces, or pierce through the banana leaf with a skewer. Note: If neither fresh nor frozen banana leaves can be had, you can use other large edible leaves such as chard, ti leaves (Cordyline terminalis), ornamental ginger leaves (Hedychium), or fig leaves. Parchment will do in a pinch. Sue's Comments on the Recipe In my mind this dish was exclusively connected to lagan nu bhonu, or wedding feasts, and navjote (initiation ceremony) receptions. Again, it is not something I have attempted in my own kitchen, probably due to the difficulty in getting hold of banana leaves in northern Italy. People do sometimes have banana trees as ornamental plants in their garden, and as I walked in the park one day I was inspired to ask a woman who was in her garden nearby if she wouldn’t spare me a banana leaf from her tree. Rather bemused at my request, she kindly cut one and presented it to me. You can’t get fresher than that! Ignoring the strange glances on the way home, I immediately put it to use. The leaf was so tender and pliable that I didn’t even need to prepare it as Niloufer outlined, it performed perfectly well as it was. For this version I used salmon steaks, and the results were super. I also attempted the chard leaf version before I was able to procure a banana leaf, and that too was interesting. Firstly, the packets were smaller, and I used white fish steaks in them. The leaves were very delicate once steamed and I had to handle the packets carefully. You can of course eat the leaf and all, which added a not unpleasant dimension. But the banana leaf was certainly superior - its delicate perfume infuses the fish, without competing with it. I would definitely go for the banana leaf option if I were able, it’s worth the trouble. Lastly, the recipe for the green chutney is itself worth the recipe, it is that good! The Parsi take on this classic is hot, sweet and sour. Make a double quantity and keep some aside for use in sandwiches and as a relish. Next: Seafood Ragout / Patia.